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Saturday, September 27, 2003

surfing is hard.

there are several things i am afraid of: 1) i will get lost trying to get to the class; 2) i will not be able to even stand on the board like sanaz

both of these happened. although the first one happened on my way home. got lost. ended up in clairemont mesa. eventually found the 5 and got home all right. the second one definitely happened. although, not very many people got on their boards either, so...whatever. it's just hard.

basically, i kept getting attacked by the waves and my own board. i got smacked by my own board quite a few times and the waves just kept pushing me down. at first, it was sort of scary and then it just got annoying. my board even got away from me a few times. that leash thing is a brilliant idea. i swallowed quite a bit of salt water too. it was disgusting. i wanted to vomit. but didn't. instead, i spit. a lot. blech. my arms are so tired from paddling. i got as far as a squat. no standing today. after the first few wipeouts, i think i got a little too scared to try. i seriously just kept getting hit by the waves and my board a lot. one wave would knock me down, i would struggle to get up, and then the next wave would knock me back down. it's like some sort of oceanic joke. haha..little girl goes down again.

this is definitely a lot harder than snowboarding. at least i could stand on the board then. and the snow doesn't MOVE. i didn't expect surfing to be easy, but i didn't think it would be this hard either. oh well. i shall persist. going again tomorrow. for three hours. i think i may just die. we only went for about an hour and a half today. errrrrr....my aaarms... :(

this is haaard...

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